Day four starts with a bad feeling. The navigation points towards Kosovo, but I cannot see any actual border crossing on the map. The hotel owner confirms my suspicion: this route would not lead into a new country, but straight to a NATO security fence. So I replan. Not heroic, just sensible. After that, things feel almost easy: ride to the border, pass the waiting cars, show my ID, roll through. In Kosovo, the atmosphere changes immediately. More Albanian flags, Latin script, lively roads. Ferizaj welcomes me loud, warm and direct. Exactly right after a day like this.
