Today is one of those rides that starts quietly and slowly works its way into the legs. Behind Lourinhã, the coast begins to fade; fields, vines, pale villages and the dry hills north of Lisbon take over. The opening climb drags on gently for almost 7 km, more patience than drama. Later, the road throws in shorter, sharper ramps, especially before Mafra: 3 km with a proper sting in the tail. At the top, the huge palace appears almost suddenly – and with it that satisfying feeling of having earned the view.