In Jausiers, one name on the sign is enough: Bonette. The road climbs straight out of the Ubaye valley, first through forest and pasture, then onto open slopes, scree and old military ground near Restefond. Near the top the landscape is almost stripped bare: grey rock, short grass, patches of snow, a thin line of tarmac just below 2,800 metres. Then the route turns south. Past the ruins of Camp des Fourches and Bousiéyas, it drops into the Tinée valley. Saint-Étienne-de-Tinée sits below, between stone walls, steep slopes and softer air.
