This is the first proper pass day of the trip. From Vojnik, the route runs through the villages north-east of Kumanovo; near Staro Nagoričane, the church of St George sits close to the line, a serious piece of medieval architecture linked to Stefan Milutin. From there, the road follows the Kriva Reka through Rankovce to Kriva Palanka. This is the last useful town before Bulgaria: fill bottles, eat something, then continue. With spare time and legs, the climb to Joakim Osogovski Monastery is worth the effort; otherwise the Osogovo Mountains do the work from the road. Past Kriva Palanka, the day starts climbing properly to the Deve Bair border pass. After the crossing, Bulgaria begins with a descent towards Kyustendil: Roman baths, thermal springs and Hisarlaka fortress above town.