Day 5 rolls out of Pleven and turns greener with every kilometre. Open fields and soft hills set the early rhythm before Lovech pulls the eye in: the Osam River, old houses and its famous covered wooden bridge. Beyond town, the ride becomes hillier, quieter and closer to the Balkan Mountains. Via Sevlievo, the backdrop slowly grows; the roads rise with purpose, but never panic. Gabrovo waits at the foot of the range – full of craft, humour and the feeling that tomorrow the mountains get serious.