Beyond Parma, the route stays flat and direct at first. The Po Valley is not spectacular, but it feels very Italian: maize fields, small railway stations, bars at junctions, workshops, church towers and plenty of summer heat rising from the road. Fidenza and Fiorenzuola d’Arda add short urban moments before the ride continues towards Piacenza. After that, the atmosphere slowly changes. The hills of the Oltrepò Pavese come closer, the roads grow quieter and the light turns softer. Salice Terme makes sense as a stop: small, green and slightly out of time.
