From Salice Terme, the route slowly changes character. The flat Po Valley is behind you, the roads become smaller and the hills more noticeable. Vineyards, villages and quiet valleys lead the way into Piedmont. Acqui Terme makes a good pause, with its old town, spa-town atmosphere and everyday Italian life. After that, things become quieter and more rolling. The route follows the Bormida, and the landscape feels greener and tighter. Near Millesimo, Liguria begins to announce itself: more climbing, more bends, less flat ground. A transition day. Just the right one.